Allparts BP-2005–010 Tremol-No Chrome

Installed in an EBMM and works great. Make sure the shaft is lined up so it moves freely before tightening it down so when you unlock your trem you won't even notice it.

If you are going to lock your tremolo this is the best and most reliable method of doing so. There are several makeshift ways to do the same thing but if you have a quality instrument plus you don’t want to alter the resonance of the instrument this is the best method to do do

My primary guitar since 1989 is an Eric Clapton Signature Stratocaster. That guitar comes from the factory with the tremolo blocked, so I have been very used to non-moving bridges for...well, a long time. I just recently bought a Mod Shop Strat, and the first thing I did was make a block of wood to stop the tremolo. That was actually quite a bit more effort than expected. The tremolo blocks are now angled on one side to allow deeper dives. That makes blocking a bit more difficult. Another issue is that the Clapton Strat has a slightly different back plate (or routing, perhaps), which still centers the tremolo block to insert strings easily. With the wood block, it wasn't as simple, which bugged me. I had remembered the Tremol-No from a long time ago and figured I would give it a shot.Installation is a snap. That part wasn't too bad; if you can install a bridge, you can do this no problem. What was much more time-consuming is tweaking the claw and the needle to get the quietest movement of the tremolo with the Tremol-No unlocked. After a good 45 minutes, I realized that I didn't intend to use the tremolo often (if at all), so I stopped messing around and put the back plate back on to change strings.When I took all of the strings off, the bridge moved a bit, pushing out the back plate. I was also messing with the screws that hold the bridge off the body, so I might have caused it to move, but I was not at all pleased when I saw my brand-new Strat in danger of being broken. Once I got strings on, all was well, I did a setup, and off I went.I will admit that the tone is better (to my ears) than it was with the wood block. It sounds brighter and more natural. More Stratocastery. I like that! There is no doubt that bridge isn't moving. It is rock-solid. So while I do appreciate the final result, I wonder if it would have been easier just to leave the block or to add springs to pull it back to the body. I like the Tremol-No for now. Next time I change strings, I will see how the bridge reacts. If it is too much trouble, I may just switch back.I would hesitantly recommend this for now. It will be nice to be able to unlock the Tremol-No the next time I just have to play "Lenny." Other than that, it is fairly pricey for the convenience.

It actually performs like it says on the videos. However, I could no longer put the back cover of my Charvel San Dimas. The knobs also somehow grabs on to my jeans when I play standing. This is good if you want to lock your FR trem. Kinda looks cool than the standard spring hooks. It could also function as a down only lock for the trem, but whats the point of a floyd rose if you cant make it scream? It takes the fun out of it. So I'm not sure if its good or bad. I still kept it just in case I need it...I haven't used it since I installed it.

It keeps the guitar in tune well enough. Before, every time I tuned, say, the 1st string, the 6th string and others down the line were knocked out of tune. Maybe the only thing that works better would be a wood block glued on the back, but that's pretty permanent, and this can be locked totally, or unlocked completely, or locked one direction only so it doesn't go back (or up on the bar). Easy enough to install but it will take 30 minutes or so.The instructions are not very clear so you've got to use your own logic. Backlash and residual play in the shaft will make it unsatisfactory so be sure, after it's all in and done, to screw in the wood screws a tiny amount (like 1/16 of a turn) before twisting down the Allen set screws. This removes backlash. (Don't be stupid and set those set screws first, use your brains.) They sort of explain this but not very well. Whatever you do, in all instances of tightening down, don't over-tighten or you'll break something.

This is such a great device! These now go on ALL my tremolo based guitars.- Fixed Bridge: Tighten a couple thumb screws (can be done quickly in between songs on stage) and use as fixed bridge. This can not be underestimated, fixed bridge improves tuning stability and string bend evenly (no lag from tremolo springs). And tuning is faster, no retuning strings multiple times because your spring is stretching because you tuned the other strings. Plus you can retune to drop tunings without changing guitars. Plus it makes it much easier/faster when changing strings, especially changing one string!!!!- Tighten one screw and use as dive only tremolo; (tuning stability) and can be done in seconds in between songs on stage. Also re-tune to drop tunings without having to adjust your tremolo springs.- Use your guitar as a standard floating tremolo by loosening both thumb screws.- This is not a bad thing to me: you will need to leave you back plate off it your plan to change the settings often. if you plan to set it and forget it, you may not have to leave it on. The first version of the Tremol-no stuck out ever so slightly so my back plate wouldn't go back on, but it looks like they have fixed that in this version. Your tone is supposedly better without back plate any way.- You can install yourself. just use common sense when removing springs (read instructions). hold hand over springs to they don't go flying.TIP: you may have to tweak the angle of the arm every so slightly so it moves smoothly. Follow instructions. I had a Suhr guitar that seems to work better/stay in tune when there was a tiny angle to slide arm. A 2nd guitar & 3rd guitar where I didn't need that angle. Follow instructions, listen to hear if slide is rubbing or binding. Also, I had to adjust the tension on my springs afterwards, no big deal (the wood screws)